green makeup

How to

How to: Choose your perfect foundation

In this post I’d like to help you choose the right shade and texture of your foundation. In general, this topic is rarely explained and many of you have problems when choosing an appropriate makeup base, not only a mineral one. The right shade and texture of foundation are the most important factors in the process of makeup application. Since the face is a kind of canvas, everyone will notice a wrong foundation on your skin, that looks like a mask or that is too dark, too cakey, …

 

A few helpful rules when choosing your foundation

The foundation has to melt with your skin, providing a healthy appearance and has to be the exact shade that matches your entire skin tone

When choosing the color of your foundation, check it under natural light without any dark shades around (not in the artificial light of the store)

The color of your foundation has to match your skin tone in the area, starting from the neck through jawline and whole face

Do NOT try the color of foundation on your hand. The hands are always different in color compared to the face

Try first a sample of foundation; during the day the skin’s natural oils activate with the foundation and the foundation color can change or deepen

You may change the color of your foundation depending on the season; our skin color may change through the year (summer/winter)

These are the basic rules to understand when choosing a foundation, even though every brand has its own names of colors. But to understand better, I will show you later some practical examples.

 

Essential rules from the color theory that will help you

choose the right shade of foundation

Undertone of your skin (warm, cool, neutral)

Depth level of foundation color (light, medium, dark)

Texture of foundation

Luminosity (content of shine in a product)


Undertone of your skin

If you are not sure about your undertone, a classic advice is to look at the color of your veins on the wrist; if they are green, you have warm undertones, if they are blue, you have cool undertones. If your veins are something between blue and green, you are a neutral. That is in general the “golden rule”. This will be much clearer on the example below. Cool shades of foundation have more red mixed in, while the warm shades are yellow based, without any reds. These is the basic difference between shades. However, there are many shades and their names are not cool or warm, but they have their own names like Ivory, Beige, Sand,Honey…But in every color you have to figure out, if its suitable for you skin depending if it’s more pink or yellow based (cool or warm) or a neutral. This is especially evident in the second and third photo, where you can see the absence of red tones in the Olive foundation. The Golden foundation has a lot yellow, while the Neutral is a more balanced shade with both pink and yellow.

warm vs. cool shades

 

Depth level

In general this represents the level of darkness or lightness of your skin (light, medium or dark) and does not depend on the undertone or color of foundation. You have to figure out the level of lightness or darkness of your skin. I have chosen an example of Alima pure mineral foundations to explain the difference in colors and darkness. Alima has 10 levels of depth- from 0 to 9 – 0 is the lightest, 9 is the darkest, regardless the color of foundation. In the pictures below, there are different shades of foundation but they are all the same depth level. The first picture shows the depth level 2, that is for very light skin tones. The second picture shows the depth level 8, which is for very dark, tanned skin.

Light foundation shades

Dark foundation shades

 

Texture of foundations

Regarding texture foundations comes in form of:

powder (minerals)

creamy (usually in stick or in a palette)

liquid

mousse, gel

The formulation/texture of the foundation is another important factor to consider. Do not choose a foundation just because is the last hit in advertising. Behind that, bear in mind what type of skin do you have. If you have very dry skin, look after a hydrating formula in a cream or liquid formulation, that will provide you a healthy, dewy look. Minerals are most often in form of powder and suit all skin types.

 

Luminosity (content of shine in a product)

refers to the amount of light reflective particles in the product, in this case in the foundation. If the foundation hasn’t any light reflective particles it means that is matte. That is great when we want a non shiny effect on the face, especially when the skin is oily with shiny areas. If we want a sheer, dewy, luminous look, we will use a glowing foundation on a dull and dry skin to give a touch of light and freshness to the face. Even with mineral foundation is the same, you can choose a matte or semi-mat formula, or you can opt for a light reflective glowing foundation. If you have oily skin, avoid a glowing foundation with reflective particles inside, even a mineral formulation with glow. Instead choose minerals that are matte and absorb oil from your skin. In this case you can try a mineral oil control primer that you apply before your foundation. Usually, a good mineral oil control primer contains kaolin, a natural clay mineral that absorbs oils and toxins.

Evidently, as you can see, the luminosity and formulation of foundation are in correlation with your skin type.

Considering all this factors together, I hope you will choose your perfect foundation!

If you are interested in this topic, then keep following my next posts with reviews of new foundations.

How to: Apply mineral makeup – part 2

How to choose the right mineral makeup brush

mineral-makeup-brushes

In this second part I will present you how to choose the right mineral makeup brush.On the market there are many different mineral makeup brands that offer a variety of makeup brushes. If you are attached to one brand of minerals that offer also brushes, you can obviously purchase brushes from them. This is not necessarily the best option. I’d suggest you to check and invest in good quality brushes that will last a long time, if you will properly take care of them. Most often mineral makeup brushes are cruelty free. That means they are made with synthetic fibers. Not every brand of minerals offer synthetic brushes, so take a look to the detailed description if you want to purchase cruelty free brushes.

 

The difference between mineral and liquid foundation application

– Minerals come in form of powders

– Mineral makeup is about adding layers of different powders (primer,color corrector, foundation, finishing powder, bronzer)

– The key is to apply minerals with a light hand and to blend well

– Using circular motion while applying mineral powders

Because of  these reasons mineral brushes have a high density of fibers, they are firmer and they should be soft. The main task of mineral brushes is to distribute evenly the powder, so that you won’t look like wearing a mask. The makeup has to be natural, flawless and distributed evenly.

 

Mineral foundation brush

is the only brush that is quite different from liquid foundation brushes. Usually mineral foundation brushes are quite large, so that you have more control when applying powders and achieving an even layer of foundation. However, you also have to choose the right brush for you face. There is no special rule to say that just one type of brush is good for applying mineral makeup. There is a huge choice of brushes, so take a look and choose the brush that suits your hand and face. Some prefer short handles like kabuki brush, other are more comfortable with long handles. The brush should have dense fibers, but if you prefer a tapered brush instead of a flat one, go for it! With tapered shapes you can reach corners and spaces around the nose, under the eye,… With a flat and large brush you can blend and buff quicker and better. This is good when you don’t have much concealing. A flawless complexion is achieved just in a few circular motions.

Among most popular mineral foundation brushes are kabuki brushes. Kabuki brush derives from the Japanese culture/theatre. They have a short handle and a very large form with a lot of bristles. I also like the kabuki for applying bronzer on the body.

Lily Lolo

Other mineral foundation brushes come in a form that is flat or oval shaped on top, with a high density of fibers. This way buffing and blending become very easy.

Alima pure

Almost every brand of mineral makeup provides an entire collection of brushes for eyes, cheeks and lips that you can use also with other products, not just minerals. Their shape is the same as other cosmetic brushes. There is no difference in choosing special brushes for mineral eyeshadow, blush or concealer. The most important is to choose a good selection of brushes that will suit your needs and last long time.

On the top picture you can see different forms and brands of brushes for mineral powders. From left to right (top): Jane Iredale Kabuki brush, (bottom): Everyday minerals long handled kabuki, Everyday minerals Large Mineral Brush, Everyday minerals Tapered Sculpting Face Brush, Organic glam powder brush, (top): Alima pure blush brush and Kitten brush, (bottom left): Jane Iredale Dome brush, (bottom right): Alima pure foundation brush

There is another type of mineral foundation application; with a sponge, even though I don’t prefer it. Instead, when I finish, I tap the face with a damp brush or sponge to set the makeup and refresh the face. This way the makeup seems also more natural cause it becomes one with the skin.

That’s all about mineral makeup brushes for now. I will surely write more about other makeup brushes in the future; they are really my passion and obsession. If you have any questions about minerals or brushes, please let me know.

How to: Apply mineral makeup – part 1

dreamstimefree5

After the first, more theoretic part about mineral makeup, it’s time to explain you some of my best advices on applying mineral makeup. If you will follow these simple steps, you can’t go wrong. Don’t be afraid to start using minerals, just because the application is slightly different from conventional makeup application. Using mineral powders is really simple and with time you will realize that is also very quick and handy. Moreover, your skin will breathe and you will feel comfortable wearing mineral makeup, because of its lightweight consistency. Some women complain about a caked, unnatural and heavy look. This might happen just in case the makeup is not properly applied. My experiences with minerals are really excellent!

The proper application of mineral makeup requires:

correct skin care

follow the process of mineral makeup application

appropriate brushes for mineral makeup

choosing the right shade and formulation of mineral makeup

applying the makeup with a “light hand”; you can always add another layer

blending it well into the skin

 

Correct skin care

One of the biggest mistakes I notice before applying makeup is that women don’t know very well their skin condition. Many times for example younger girls tend to think that their skin is grease, when in fact it isn’t. Consequently they use wrong skin care products that dry their skin even more. They proceed with makeup that also don’t match their skin type and the result is obviously a disaster. In every case, you should first analyze your skin well (or ask a professional for help). Most often it needs just a gentle exfoliation and a hydrating boost. Before I start applying the mineral foundation, I first clean the skin and apply a light organic oil for all skin types (in general for normal skin). I leave it a few minutes until absorbed into the skin. If needed, I remove the excess of oil from skin with a blotting paper. But usually, all you need is just 2 drops of these oils and they work great, without leaving the skin with a grease shine. I especially like the Inlight organic daily face oil. After this I start applying the mineral foundation.

 

Mineral makeup application

You’ve heard most of time about and I will repeat it, too: Minerals are NOT like the finishing powder in conventional makeup. You can use just one product (mineral foundation) instead of many others (liquid foundation, concealer, finishing powder,…) if you want. For any other imperfections there is a wide range of mineral correctors and other finishing powders. But that’s another story.

 

Application of all mineral products:

1. Sprinkle a small amount of mineral powder (foundation, blush,…) into the lid of the jar

2. Swirl the appropriate brush into the powder

3. Remove the excess of powder from the brush with taping it into the lid – less is more

4. Apply it on your face with a light hand (use circular motions and a buffing brush for the foundation)

5. Blend well the product

6. Avoid a heavy application, you don’t want to look unnatural

7. I finish with a refreshing spritz of an appropriate herbal toner or water.

 

Here I finish the first part and look forward for your questions about the topic until the second part.

 

(photo: Dreamstime.com)

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